{"id":27615,"date":"2019-04-25T05:00:42","date_gmt":"2019-04-25T09:00:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/bernheim.org\/?p=27615"},"modified":"2019-04-25T05:00:42","modified_gmt":"2019-04-25T09:00:42","slug":"the-road-trip-issue-louisville","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/bernheim.org\/news\/the-road-trip-issue-louisville\/","title":{"rendered":"The Road Trip Issue: Louisville"},"content":{"rendered":"

Source: The Nashville Scene<\/a>
\nBy D. Patrick Rodgers
\nApril 25, 2019<\/p>\n

hanks to how far west it lies in the Eastern Time Zone, the beautiful Louisville, Ky., has sunsets well past 8 p.m. this time of year. That means they get about an hour more daylight in the evenings than we do here in Nashville \u2014 just one of many reasons to take the roughly two-and-a-half-hour drive up I-65 to Derby City.<\/p>\n

All things revolve around the Kentucky Derby in the run-up to the famed springtime horse race, which takes place May 4 this year. The annual festivities kick off with the airshow and fireworks display known as Thunder Over Louisville \u2014\u00a0a tradition I was not aware of when I booked my fact-finding mission for this, the\u00a0Scene<\/i>\u2019s inaugural Road Trip Issue. Much of downtown Louisville shuts down the day of Thunder, leaving the streets largely empty as sundry warbirds rip through the sky overhead. That made for a vaguely apocalyptic vibe on my visit, which was nevertheless full of lovely sights and eats.<\/p>\n

\n

\"21cLouisville’s 21c Museum Hotel<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Stay<\/b><\/h3>\n

From the crow\u2019s-nest-like third-floor Sky Parlor suite at\u00a0Gralehaus\u00a0<\/b>in Louisville\u2019s historic Highlands neighborhood, you can hear the bell of St. Brigid\u2019s Catholic Church across the street toll \u2026 well, clear as a bell, every hour on the hour. Gralehaus features only three rooms, and the Sky Parlor is quirky, intimate and cute, complete with a small Crosley record player, a handful of records and a bathroom (with both a shower stall and a separate tub) that\u2019s nearly as big as the bedroom portion of the suite. Downstairs is Gralehaus\u2019 delightful dining facilities, and adjacent is the\u00a0Holy Grale<\/b>, a wine and beer bar in a 114-year-old building formerly home to a Unitarian Church. Gralehaus and the Holy Grale share a charming little biergarten.<\/p>\n

There are a number of historic places to stay in Louisville, including the ornate\u00a0Brown Hotel\u00a0<\/b>on West Broadway. But perhaps no spot is quite as special as the\u00a021c Museum Hotel<\/b>\u00a0just a block away from the\u00a0Louisville Slugger Factory<\/b>\u00a0on Main Street. Though 21c, a boutique hotel and art museum chain, has expanded to a total of eight locations \u2014 including the one in Nashville\u2019s Gray & Dudley building, opened in 2017 \u2014 the company\u2019s Louisville spot, opened by Laura Lee Brown and Steve Wilson in 2006, was the first. A stay at the 21c on Christmas Eve a couple years back was genuinely among the most pleasant hotel experiences I\u2019ve ever had, with the staff upgrading me to the magnificent Asleep in the Cyclone suite and comping my room-service charges simply out of holiday-spirit kindness. While you\u2019re not likely to have the same intimacy in a 21c room as you have at Gralehaus, the larger and more attentive staff might just make your trip. Currently on display in 21c Museum are three exhibits:\u00a0Labor&Materials<\/i>;\u00a0Interwoven: A Tribute to Enid Yandell<\/i>;\u00a0<\/i>and\u00a0The Other South: Photographs by Laura Lee Brown<\/i>.<\/p>\n

\"Mammoth\"Mammoth Cave Wildlife Museum<\/span>PHOTO: AMANDA MATSUI<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

See<\/b><\/h3>\n

The road to Louisville is peppered with weird and wonderful gems, from famed attractions like the\u00a0National Corvette Museum<\/b>\u00a0in Bowling Green, Ky., to quirky, lesser-known stops like\u00a0Dinosaur Museum<\/b>\u00a0in Cave City. Also in Cave City \u2014 which is about 90 minutes north of Nashville on I-65, a little past the halfway point to Louisville \u2014 is the 50-year-old\u00a0Mammoth Cave Wildlife Museum<\/b>. Frozen in time like something Clark Griswold would insist his family stop off and see, the Wildlife Museum is full of genuinely impressive specimens, from a sprawling bug collection to massive, decades-old taxidermied bears (of the grizzly, Kodiak and polar varieties), exotic cats, birds and much more. Aside from the woman working the front desk (who described the museum\u2019s loop as a \u201cvicious circle\u201d), the museum was empty on a recent Saturday, leaving me to wonder as I wandered, \u201cHow is this magnificent place still here?\u201d and, \u201cHow magnificent is this moose?\u201d Admission is $9, and it\u2019s an absolute must \u2014 who knows how long this relic, complete with its Cracker Barrel-style gift shop, will remain. If you\u2019d like to spend some more time exploring the natural wonders of Cave City, plan a stop at the awe-inspiring\u00a0Mammoth Cave National Park\u00a0<\/b>(a destination that deserves more attention than a quick road trip could possibly allow you to pay).<\/p>\n

\"Giant\"Thomas Dambo’s “Little Elina” in Bernheim Forest<\/span>PHOTO: AMANDA MATSUI<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

About a half-hour from Louisville\u2019s city center is Clermont\u2019s\u00a0Bernheim Arboretum and Research Forest<\/b>, a 15,000-plus-acre preserve founded nearly a century ago. Even on its own, Bernheim Forest is a beautiful stop that showcases Kentucky\u2019s many verdant wonders, but a recently installed exhibit makes it essential. Danish artist Thomas Dambo\u2019s\u00a0Forest Giants in a Giant Forest<\/i>\u00a0features three massive creatures \u2014 Mama Loumari and her children, Little Nis and Little Elina \u2014 built using recycled wood from the area. Bernheim allows visitors to touch and interact with Dambo\u2019s sculptures, and requires only a $5-per-car environmental impact fee on holidays and weekends. The Giants are expected to stay in Bernheim for at least three more years. (Consider visiting during the Fe Fi Fo Fun Fest on May 18, which will feature \u201cnature discovery stations, construction of the faerie village, costume parade, giant tree giveaways\u201d and more.)<\/p>\n

Of course, if you want to do your exploring in Louisville proper, there are plenty of sights to see. There\u2019s the independent and wonderfully charming\u00a0Carmichael\u2019s Bookstore\u00a0<\/b>on Bardstown Road, where I was just lucky enough to have been greeted by a puppy named Capone when I visited on a Saturday afternoon. Nearby are the historic\u00a0Cave Hill Cemetery\u00a0<\/b>\u2014 where both Col. Sanders and Muhammed Ali are interred \u2014 and the rolling, 400-acre\u00a0Cherokee Park<\/b>, both of which are ideal grounds for an afternoon stroll. If you\u2019re looking for some more active entertainment, try\u00a0Baxter Jack\u2019s\u00a0<\/b>on Baxter Avenue, Louisville\u2019s so-called \u201cvolleybar,\u201d which is open from April through October and features three sand volleyball courts.<\/p>\n

\"PTYPlease & Thank You’s chocolate chip cookies<\/span>PHOTO: JOSH MERIDETH<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Eat<\/b><\/h3>\n

All within walking distance of Gralehaus in the Highlands neighborhood are\u00a0Ramsi\u2019s Cafe<\/b>\u00a0and loads of Irish bars (as well as a palm reader and a couple of tattoo parlors). While\u00a0Butchertown Grocery\u00a0<\/b>came highly recommended for dinner, it completely closed up shop on the Saturday of my visit due to the aforementioned Thunder Over Louisville. So instead, my dining partner and I opted for New American cuisine spot\u00a0Rye\u00a0<\/b>in the East Market District, which is sometimes referred to, unfortunately, as the \u201cNuLu\u201d district. (The plague of asinine neighborhood abbreviation rebrandings isn\u2019t limited to Nashville.) Rye\u2019s menu features small plates as well as large appetizers, and we went with a selection of fresh oysters along with the tender, whole-grilled pompano (prepared with lemon and berbere) as well as delicious milk-braised pork over grits and English peas. Our server was attentive and delightful, our cocktails refreshing and light \u2014 I highly recommend this one as a date locale if you\u2019ve got the scratch for a fine-dining establishment.<\/p>\n

On Sunday, I tried out popular Mexican brunch spot\u00a0Con Huevos\u00a0<\/b>on Frankfort Avenue, and while there was a bit of a wait for a table, I used that opportunity to hit coffee shop\u00a0Please & Thank You\u00a0<\/b>next door. I\u2019d heard the scuttlebutt about P&TY\u2019s supposedly phenomenal chocolate-chip cookie. Friends, let me tell you \u2014 I was not disappointed. It was among the best cookie experiences of my life. Back at Con Huevos, a chorizo torta and the huevos rancheros were quite savory, but the best bite I had all weekend \u2014 even better than that world-class cookie \u2014 was the plate of tres leches pancakes. They were obscenely good.<\/p>\n

The brevity of my weekend trip meant I wasn\u2019t able to check out other restaurants that were recommended to me, including the 86-year-old\u00a0Jack Fry\u2019s<\/b>, a Southern-fare spot whose original owner and namesake was reportedly \u201ca rambling, gambling kind of guy who loved amateur boxing and the race horses.\u201d I did find time, however, for a drink at Germantown\u2019s\u00a0Mr. Lee\u2019s<\/b>, an inconspicuous speakeasy-style cocktail bar with little light and much ambiance. It was mildly difficult to hear my companions over the clamor in the place. (There\u2019s a joke in here about it not being easy to speak at the speakeasy, but I\u2019m too classy to make it.) That\u2019s a minor complaint for a place with such excellent drinks, especially when they\u2019re a bit cheaper than similar fare at cocktail bars in Nashville. Try the No Jacket Required if you\u2019re a bourbon fan, and if you\u2019re in the mood for a more divey spot afterward, walk to\u00a0The Pearl\u00a0<\/b>or\u00a0Nachbar\u00a0<\/b>\u2014 both are about two blocks away, also in Germantown.<\/p>\n

Of course, if you\u2019re a brewery and\/or a distillery nut, you could easily fill a weekend touring much-loved facilities like the\u00a0Angel\u2019s Envy Distillery\u00a0<\/b>and the\u00a0Copper & Kings American Brandy Distillery<\/b>, or tipping a few back at\u00a0Falls City Brewing Company<\/b>.<\/p>\n

\"AngelsAngel’s Envy Distillery<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Source: The Nashville Scene By D. Patrick Rodgers April 25, 2019 hanks to how far west it lies in the Eastern Time Zone, the beautiful Louisville, Ky., has sunsets well […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_price":"","_stock":"","_tribe_ticket_header":"","_tribe_default_ticket_provider":"","_tribe_ticket_capacity":"0","_ticket_start_date":"","_ticket_end_date":"","_tribe_ticket_show_description":"","_tribe_ticket_show_not_going":false,"_tribe_ticket_use_global_stock":"","_tribe_ticket_global_stock_level":"","_global_stock_mode":"","_global_stock_cap":"","_tribe_rsvp_for_event":"","_tribe_ticket_going_count":"","_tribe_ticket_not_going_count":"","_tribe_tickets_list":"[]","_tribe_ticket_has_attendee_info_fields":false,"_cloudinary_featured_overwrite":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[450],"tags":[],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe Road Trip Issue: Louisville | Bernheim Forest and Arboretum<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/bernheim.org\/news\/the-road-trip-issue-louisville\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Road Trip Issue: Louisville | Bernheim Forest and Arboretum\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Source: The Nashville Scene By D. 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